More proof that skin is an amazing organ!

This has little to do with beauty and skin health, but I thought that it was so fascinating that I just had to share.

In 2007, researchers at the University of Wisconsin – Madison first determined that skin cells could be turned back into stem cells. That’s pretty amazing in and of itself, but it gets better. In a new study published in the February 12th, 2009 edition of “Circulation Research”, the researchers at UW – Madison found a way to turn these skin cells – cum – stem cells into working heart tissue. Researchers are working towards the day when heart patients can have new cardiac tissue grown from their own skin cells, instead of waiting on the transplant list.

So this Valentine’s Day, remember to take care of your skin. You never know when you’ll be calling on it to fix your broken heart!

As if you needed another reason to wear your sunscreen….

Non-melanoma skin cancer could be a harbinger of other non-skin cancers.

 

According to a report by the National Cancer Institute and the Medical University of South Carolina, people who had been diagnosed with either basal cell or squamous cell skin cancer had double the risk of developing another type of cancer when compared to those with no history of the disease.

 

The full results on this study are published in the August 26^th online version of the Journal of the National Cancer Institute

 

Did you know…..

Did you know that people with blue eyes tend to develop crow’s feet later than people with darker eye colors? This is because the lower levels of melanin in blue eyes make them much more sensitive to light. Due to this increased sensitivity, many blue eyed individuals feel the need for sunglasses more than some of their dark eyed counterparts. Wearing sunglasses not only prevents squinting, but also protects the eye area from collagen destroying UVA and UVB rays. 

This summer, don’t let your eyes and the delicate skin surrounding them go unprotected! Be sure to always wear your sunglasses, preferably the wraparound style, which has no gaps that let the sunlight in. The result will be worth it – smoother, younger looking skin for years to come.

Eight Misconceptions About Facials

Happy mid-March everyone! I hope everyone’s skin survived the cold, dry winter and is on it’s way to looking great for the summer. Lately, I have found myself in the position of explaining certain things about facials – namely separating fact from fiction as it pertains to skin care treatments. I thought that if so many people I meet out and about have been misinformed about facials from friends, the media and even other estheticians, well then maybe you have too. So here is the official debunking of those pesky rumors with a list of eight misconceptions about the facial!

It’s normal to break out after a facial

This is the mother of all facial myths. Shoot. If I had a dime for every time I heard this, well…let’s just say Elizabeth Arden would be renamed Elizabeth Quesnelle. There is absolutely no reason you should break out after a facial. If you do it’s because the technician used the wrong products, causing irritation and inflammation, or because they did not do extractions correctly. When an esthetician performs extractions, he/she looks at each pore/blemish/blackhead and assesses whether it can be safely extracted. If the esthetician thinks that it’s ready to come out, then they begin gently pushing on the area, working the debris out. If, after applying gentle pressure, the impurities are not budging, then it should be left alone. If the esthetician continues to force it out, then you can end up with a busted follicle wall and the spreading of bacteria into other follicles or even a scar.

I can do these treatments at home for much cheaper

You can do treatments at home, and they would cost you less money, but you won’t get the results you can at the hands of a professional esthetician. Estheticians are able to use special instruments to look at your skin and correctly diagnose each area and determine the best course of treatment. Over 50% of women incorrectly identified their skin type according to a recent study published by a beauty publication. Usually, people mistake their skin for being oilier than it actually is. Therefore, they gravitate towards those products with oil controlling properties, which can seriously throw off the balance of the skin by making it way too dry.

I have to purchase every product, every time

Sometimes it seems as though if you don’t immediately purchase the recommended product your skin will fall off. Not so. Make educated choices about your skin care. Ask the technician why he/she is recommending that you take home that product today. If they can’t give you a well thought out or intelligent and scientific answer, then you may want to pass on the purchase. Take the name of the product home and do your own research on the web.  Also, don’t be afraid to tell your esthetician that you are on a budget and ask what one product at the spa/salon is essential in their opinion. Follow that up by asking what drugstore brands will work well with your skin. Your skin’s health and appearance are very important, but you shouldn’t have to break the bank to take care of it. There are things that work (and don’t work) at all price points.

It’s ok for the technician to leave the room

There are different thoughts on this, but I firmly believe that your esthetician should be with you in the treatment room 100% of the time. Some of the products we use are aggressive. To leave when an acid or enzyme is on the skin is inexcusable in my book. Usually, estheticians leave because they are working on two clients in two separate rooms at one time. Places where this factory-mentality exists should be avoided in my opinion. Your skin is too important to be treated with split focus. When making an appointment, ask the receptionist if they book multiple facials for each esthetician per hour. Or, ask the esthetician before the treatment begins if he/she will be in the treatment room at all times. This is particularly important during body treatments, where there is a real possibility of overheating or becoming claustrophobic.

Extractions should hurt

No pain, no gain doesn’t apply to the world of skin care. Extractions may not be the most pleasant part of the facial, but they should not cause a great deal of pain. If the esthetician is using too much pressure, ask he/she to go easier on your skin. It is possible to have effective extractions without applying what feels like 5 tons of weight to your skin!

The oil used to massage my face will make me break out

I have personally heard this from nervous clients during the massage portion of the facial. I can absolutely understand where the concern comes from. We have been taught that oil is bad. Oil causes blemishes. Nothing is further from the truth. The oil that is produced in our skin (which is known as sebum) lubricates our skin and provides an additional protective layer against bacteria and particulate matter. Often times, we create our own oily skin issues by scrubbing so much away that our body responds by over-producing the sebum. It’s a vicious cycle. The oil that should be used on the face during a massage should be olive, grapeseed, jojoba, or apricot kernel. These oils are molecularly similar to our body’s own oils, so the skin readily accepts them in. Since breakouts don’t come from oil, the addition of these products to the skin serves to provide lubrication and deep moisturization.

Facials are for pampering, dermatologists are for results

Actually, for many minor and common skin ailments, seeing an esthetician can help immensely. Those with excessively dry or oily skin, acne and even rosacea have found that facials help keep their skin balanced and their trips to the doctor few and far between. Estheticians are uniquely qualified to work with the client on daily skin care regimens, teaching them to tend for their skin. Dermatologists sometimes see the condition and not how the skin as a whole needs to be treated. They are far too busy to instruct their patients on proper home care. Estheticians in no way take the place of a dermatologist. It is still ESSENTIAL for all people to see their dermatologist at least once a year for a skin cancer check and certainly if they have any sudden change in the skin that could represent disease.

I don’t REALLY need to discuss medications with my esthetician

I know it seems strange. Why should you tell an esthetician about your meds? Is it their business? Yep – it is. Many medications have side effects that affect the skin. Most commonly, medications result in drier, more sensitive skin. If your technician is unaware that you are on, say Accutane, then there is a good chance that the wrong products could be used on your skin and you won’t get the best results.

All medicines need to be addressed, although anti-biotics, birth control pills, acne medication, and anti-virals should be especially noted.

I hope that you found this useful and this helps you feel more confident when getting facials in the future. Remember: The only thing we have to fear is unbalanced skin itself!!

Your Aesthetician and You: An Equal Partnership in Beautiful Skin

Beautiful skin is the result of a true partnership between you and your aesthetician. When half of the team is a mediocre practitioner or a non-dedicated client, there can only be lackluster, or even dangerous, results.

So can you be sure that your aesthetician has what it takes to help you achieve your skin care goals? There are three different questions you can, and should, ask prior to your facial service that, in my opinion, can help separate the masters from the disasters.

1) Will I break out after the facial?

Anyone who tells you that it is completely normal to break out after your facial treatment should be avoided. Breaking out is not a natural after-effect. It’s usually the result of careless extractions or improper product use. Occasionally, everyone (even I) make mistakes from time to time. Skin can behave in a manner that is unexpected. But it shouldn’t be the norm and it certainly shouldn’t be made to be the client’s post-facial expectation.

2) Can you recommend good products that I can get at the drugstore?

One of the biggest complaints people have about getting beauty services is the post-treatment push to buy products. You shouldn’t have to feel as though you are being stingy when you don’t want (or can’t afford) the myriad products being pushed. Any aesthetician worth his or her salt will be able to identify quality brands available at your area drugstore. Be wary of those aestheticians that can only speak knowledgably about the products that their spa carries.

3) How often should I get a facial?

This shouldn’t be a cut and dry answer. Getting a monthly facial does help your skin achieve its greatest appearance. That said, sometimes it’s not feasible for individuals to follow that regimen. Your aesthetician should be able to create a home care regimen and facial schedule for you that are flexible. Sure – the results might not be as great as a monthly facial, but combining quality home care with quarterly facials can definitely acheive visible results.

Aside from the above questions, there are certain clues to watch out for during the service. To me, the most horrifying thing that my clients tell me is that they have gone to other aestheticians that berate them for their skin imperfections. These aestheticians have told my clients that their skin is terrible; they ask what they’ve done to it to make it look the way that it does. People with skin imperfections already feel self-conscious. A licensed professional insulting them only serves to make them feel worse. If a licensed professional ever speaks that way to you, I urge you to get up and ask to speak to the salon and spa manager.

 

Before you think that a unfortunate facial can only be the fault of the aesthetician,  there are some very important items that are your responsibility during the facial process. It’s up to you, the client, to notify the aesthetician concerning your current at-home regimen, prescription medications that you are using, whether or not you are pregnant. These things can affect the decisions made by the aesthetician. If the practitioner is working under a false set of assumptions, your results will not be as great and the facial can, in some cases, have damaging results.

 

As a client, you should have high expectations. But you shouldn’t have unreasonable ones. Facials can make great differences to your skin, but the changes don’t happen after one facial and they cannot happen without you following a good at-home regimen. What you do to your skin daily has more of an effect on you than one facial can!

 

Getting a great facial service should be a wonderful experience and should result in tangible changes to your skin’s appearance. Acheiving your skin care goals is more a partnership with your aesthetician than it is a provider-client relationship. Keep up your end of the bargain and ensure that your aesthetician is keeping up theirs and the result will be nothing less than beautiful!

Oily skin? Fix it with…oil.

With all of the water based, oil free, oil removing products on the market, it’s easy to see why people believe that oil is the enemy. Nothing could be further from the truth. Oil is an essential part of skin protection. When we strip the skin of oil, it becomes more fragile, easily fissured and, ultimately, extremely compromised.  In addition, the harsh products that can be found on the store shelves and in some salons/spas today can remove oil so efficiently that the body reacts negatively to the sudden loss of oil. This condition is known as Reactive Seborrhea. In this condition, the skin sends an SOS to the brain, alerting it to its sudden loss of lubrication and protection. The brain reacts by sending the message to the oil glands to kick up production, thus creating a situation where excess oil is being pumped out. It ultimately turns into a vicious cycle that is frustrating to the person and hard on the skin.

So what’s an oily person to do? Stop the cycle by following these easy steps:

 1) Wash the skin no more than 2x per day. If possible, washing it once per day is optimal – just in the evening. This will ensure that you aren’t over stripping your skin with frequent cleansings.

2) Use oil to remove dirt and grime. Sounds counter-intuitive.  Cleansing oils are amazing. But even if you don’t own a cleansing oil, you can sweep your skin with a cotton ball doused in olive, almond, jojoba, grapeseed or apricot kernel oils. This will break up oil on the skin’s surface, as well as destroy make-up. It will remove all traces of grime without stripping your skin.

3) Apply olive, almond, jojoba, grapeseed or apricot kernel oil at night to entire face an neck. Apply oil in the amount of 1/2 the size of a dime. It will help with oil regulation of the skin. These oils also have varying degrees of vitamin E, squalene and have anti-bacterial properties.

Oils alone will not cure acne. But, in conjunction with any combination of benzoyl peroxide, sulfur and salicylic acids, it can help to restore the skin to its perfect balance.

Benzoyl Peroxide- An enemy of acne

Benzoyl Peroxide is the old faithful of acne care. First identified as an acne treatment in the 1920s by beauty giant Revlon, it’s still widely regarded as the first line of defense against acne.

Propionibacteria acnes, or P. acnes, are the bacteria found in acne lesions.  Since they are an anaerobic bacteria, they are easily destroyed when  the oxygen-rich benzoyl peroxide is introduced to the area. By reducing the number of bacteria on the skin, the number of breakouts can be reduced as well.

Benzoyl peroxide is normally used in strengths between 2.5% and 10%. I personally recommend the 10% Clean and Clear Persa-Gel for individuals whose skin can tolerate that strength. If not, Clearsil makes a more mild version at 5% that should be useful to nearly everyone. If your the benzoyl peroxide dries out your skin, add a bit of a nut or seed based oil – olive, grapeseed, sweet almond or apricot kernel – to the affected area. It’s completely counter-intuitive, but it will not promote further breakouts. Rather, the vitamin E and squalene in these oils will serve as a protective and restorative barrier to your damaged skin.

Please keep your eyes open to this blog for more spot treatment information. Benzoyl peroxide alone may not work on everyone. But never fear – there are other powerful products and ingredients that, in conjunction with the benzoyl peroxide, can leave your skin healthy and blemish free.

New Hope for Those With Vitiligo

Individuals with the auto-immune disease vitiligo might soon have better treatments to rely on. A research team from King’s College in London found that topical use of peperine, a substance found in black pepper, resulted in renewed pigmentation in affected areas.

Using mice, researchers found that using topical peperine and its synthetic derivatives for 6 weeks resulted in an even, light brown re-pigmentations. When used in conjunction with radiation based phototherapy, the results were even better.

Vitiligo is a disease that is marked by the destruction of melanin – the substance responsible for pigment. This loss of melanin results in white, pigmentless patches that are emotionally disheartening for those who suffer from it, particularly those with darker skin tones. Physically, it leaves those with vitiligo at a higher risk of skin cancer since the body is without its natural UV defenses.

How Drinking Tea Can Help Your Skin

Nothing makes the winter chill dissipate like my favorite drink – the magnificent cup of tea.   Tea is fantastic for the skin.  But what tea is good for what condition?  Clearly all teas aren’t made equally.  So before you reach for that Lipton Tea Bag, check out the following teas!

Black Tea

Black tea comes from the Camellia Sinensis plant.  The leaves are picked then left to wither and ferment (NOT producing alcohol, however…I could hear the wheels turning in your heads from here).  The enzymes that cause the fermentation turn the leaves brown.

Black tea has less caffeine than coffee and research has shown that it provides more health benefits than the normal cup of joe.  Black tea is a good source of anti-oxidants known as flavonoids.  These flavonoids help stop the free radicals that form when we are exposed to external elements such as the sun, smoking and drinking.  By fighting the free radicals, your skin will benefit by forming fewer wrinkles, having continued pliability and an even all-over texture and color.  A special note for those of you who bruise easily, getting adequate flavonoids can help strengthen your blood vessels, which protects your body from becoming black and blue!

All right, so technically Lipton Tea falls under this category, as do most commercial non-herbal brands you find at the mega-mart. Some teas, however, offer more bang for the cup.  Try some Earl Grey, English Breakfast, Ceylon, or Lapsang Souchong for a better cuppa tea!

Green Tea

Green tea is probably the most famous tea in terms of health.  It comes from the Camellia Sinensis plant as well, but the leaves are not left to ferment.  Rather they are kept, well, green.

The polyphenols in Green Tea are called catechins.  These catechins are powerful anti-oxidants that have been shown to inhibit the growth of malignant cells throughout your body, including the skin.  If you are a sun worshipper or even a casual beachgoer, Green Tea should be a part of your daily diet.

While the taste of Green Tea can be overwhelming and odd to western palates, it only takes a few days to get used to.  There are also many flavored green teas on the market. My favorite is Celestial Seasonings Mandarin Orange Green Tea, which can be found at most grocery stores.

Burdock Root Tea

Yes, I know. What the hay is Burdock Root tea?  Burdock Root is a vegetable found in Asia. It is a known blood purifier that boosts the immune system and works magic on skin disorders such as acne, psoriasis and eczema.  The tea is also a good source of essential minerals such as chromium, iron, magnesium and potassium.  Vitamin C and the B-vitamins are also found in this tea.

Pregnant women should avoid this tea as it can, in VERY LIMITED cases, tighten the uterus.

This tea can be found at Whole Foods and other health food stores.

Chamomile Tea

Not only is Chamomile Tea famous for its ability to calm and relax the drinker, it is also outstanding for those of us suffering from dry skin.  It contains compounds that are anti-inflammatory (good for controlling the itch and redness that comes from dryness) and is fungicidal.  After you finish your tea, you can use the spent tea bag on your skin if there is a specific area that is particularly bothersome.

Those with hay fever should be cautious about using chamomile, as it is a member of the ragweed family.

Chamomile Tea can be found at every grocery store from here to Timbuktu.

As with any topical skin care treatment, it takes a little while for the effects to be noticed. General skin condition should improve in about 2 weeks if you drink 4 cups of Black or Green a day.  The more targeted skin conditions, such as acne, will show improvement after about 3 weeks (sometimes sooner).

Please read the specifics on your box of tea to learn how to properly brew the drink and if there are any contraindications with the tea!

This winter, nothing will warm you and nothing will be as good for your skin as a nice cup of tea.  So grab your favorite cuddly sweater, your afghan and enjoy! _popupControl();

Shedding Your Skin: A User’s Guide to Exfoliation

It’s been a cold and nasty winter thus far and I thought hey, what perfect weather for me to talk about exfoliation with you all.

As you all are keenly aware, I am a HUGE proponent of exfoliation and never is there a season when it is more needed than the cold winter months.

But what with so many exfoliants on the market, how do you know what’s right for your skin? So consider this your exfoliation cheat sheet (aka How to tell your AHA from a hole in the ground).

To start off, there are 2 classes of exfoliants: Mechanical and Chemical. Mechanical is when there are scrubby particles (usually synthetic beads or ground nuts/pits in a liquid or gel base that, when rubbed on, physically break the bond between the old skin cells that need to go and the rest of your skin. Chemical exfoliants are compounds that dissolve the “glue” that holds the old skin cells on so that they can slough off on their own.

Mechanical exfoliants are great for the body. In MOST cases (not all) I think they are entirely too harsh for delicate facial skin. They can cause microscopic abrasions that can allow bacteria and other nastiness in (causing zits). If you are going to use a mechanical exfoliant, get one with synthetic beads. These are at least perfectly round and less likely to cause damage. Avoid the nuts/pits – unless it’s a really high-end product, chances are they are roughly ground with extremely rough edges. For example. ST. IDES IS THE DEVIL. THE DEVIL. It can’t be overstated. IT’S THE DEVIL!

Ahem. I am better now.

Moving on to chemical exfoliations, which tend to be confusing for many people.

The first, and most common, class of chemical exfoliants is known as Alpha Hydroxy Acids (or AHAs). The acids that fall into this class and some info about them are:

Glycolic Acid: Comes from sugar cane. Good for most skin types, except for really sensitive skin. It’s the most common AHA on the market.

Malic Acid: Comes from apples. Not often used alone. Rather, it usually is in an AHA blend of 3 or more acids.

Lactic Acid: Comes from milk. It is easily my favorite. It does all of the bond breaking goodness of the other AHAs but has the added benefit of being moisturizing. It’s great on sensitive skin.

Citric Acid: Comes from citrus fruits. Can be very irritating if not in low concentrations or in a blend with other acids.

Tartaric Acid: You will generally not see this unless it comes in a blend.

Beta Hydroxy Acid is another common exfoliant. The only BHA – salicylic acid.

But when to use what??? AHAs are water-soluble. That means, they don’t really absorb into the skin (since one of the skin’s function is to keep water out), rather they do their work on a surface level. Salicylic Acid is lipid (oil) soluble. This means that it can get into the pore and clean out the sebum (oil) and dead skin cells inside.

If you have mostly clear skin, but are concerned with fine lines and sun damage, use the AHAs. If you have oily/acne-prone skin, then the BHA is the one for you.

Please note that in order to work best, these acids need to be in the correct concentration of 5-8 % and at a pH of 3-4. This usually is not stated on the bottle. If the AHA is listed as the 2^nd or 3rd ingredient, it’s usually in the proper concentration.

Finally, there is a 3^rd type of chemical exfoliant – the enzyme. Enzymes work to dissolve the top layer of dead cells (as opposed to AHAs which just eat up the bond that holds them on). Not all enzymes do the trick. They must be in a class known as Proteolytic Plant Enzymes. The ones normally used in skin care are Papaya (papain), Pineapple (Bromelain) and Pumpkin (cucurbita pepo). Enzymes are great for sensitive skin. IMPORTANT: Enzymes are what women and men of color should be using for exfoliation. Mechanical exfoliation can damage the skin causing dark spots. Acids can cause discoloration (lightening of pigment). Enzymes are safe and very gentle.

So this winter, don’t let your skin become dull and flaky! Show off the healthy skin that’s just one little layer away!